Koyo Zom is a stunning peak in the Hindu Raj mountain range of Pakistan, rising to a height of 6,871 meters (22,546 feet).

What is the best time to attempt Koyo Zom?

The best time to attempt Koyo Zom is during the summer months, typically from June to August, when the weather is relatively stable.

What level of physical fitness is required for this expedition?

Climbing Koyo Zom requires exceptional physical fitness, including cardiovascular endurance, strength, and stamina.

What technical skills are required for this expedition?

Strong technical climbing skills, including ice climbing, mixed climbing, and crevasse rescue, are essential for this expedition.

Koyo Zom Expedition | Climb the Highest Peak in Hindu Raj Range

Accomodation
2-3 stars hotels (in some places best available)
Arrival City
Islamabad
Departure City
Islamabad
Guide
Guided
Language
English
Meals
Breakfast, lunch and dinner (normally included)
Mineral Water
Yes
Transportation
Car or Van/ grand Cabin 13 seats or Coaster/minibus, 21seats (4x 4 classical jeeps)
Minimum Age
18
Maximum Age
75

KOYO ZOM EXPEDITION

Koyo Zom, towering at 6,872 meters (22,546 feet), stands as the highest peak in the Hindu Raj mountain range within the Chitral region of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. Although it holds great significance, climbers have explored it far less than the towering neighbors of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges. Geographically, the Hindu Raj range stretches between the Hindu Kush to the west and the Karakoram to the east. Koyo Zom rises along the boundary separating the Upper Chitral District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa from Gilgit-Baltistan. In 1968, a Japanese expedition achieved the first recorded ascent of the peak. Typically, the best climbing season spans from June to September, offering more favorable weather conditions.

Key Features of KOYO ZOM EXPEDITION

Koyo Zom challenges climbers with its remote location and demanding technical routes. Reaching the summit becomes an extraordinary test of skill, endurance, and willpower. Notably, the rugged northwest face, featuring the formidable Cathedral section, calls for advanced climbing techniques and unwavering determination. Climbers must adapt to extreme altitudes, often enduring headaches and the mental strain of monotony. Moreover, unpredictable weather conditions intensify the risk, making flexibility a crucial part of the ascent strategy. Due to its isolated position in the Hindu Raj mountain range, thorough logistical preparation remains vital for success. Ultimately, overcoming these obstacles showcases the remarkable resilience and expertise of those who dare to conquer Koyo Zom’s demanding heights.

For the next four decades, Koyo Zom remained relatively untouched, as the remoteness of the Hindu Raj and the climb’s difficulties deterred many potential expeditions. During this time, only a few attempts were made, with limited information available about their successes or failures.

Access to the base camp is via a jeepable road from Chitral to Mastuj and Yarkhun Valley. The trek offers breathtaking views of the rugged Hindu Raj and Hindu Kush ranges. Additionally, the Chitral region is rich in culture and history, being home to the Kalash people and their unique traditions.

Higlights

Climbing at such extreme altitudes poses significant physiological challenges, including altitude sickness, hypothermia, and reduced oxygen levels.
These expeditions often involve technical climbing sections, including steep ice walls, crevasse crossings, and mixed terrain.
Remote Locations: Koyo Zom are often located in remote and isolated regions, requiring careful planning, logistics, and support teams.
Extreme Weather Conditions: Climbers must be prepared for unpredictable weather, including strong winds, heavy snowfall, and freezing temperatures