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2-3 stars hotels (in some places best available)
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Islamabad
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Islamabad
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Guided
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English
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Breakfast, lunch and dinner (normally included)
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Yes
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Car or Van/ grand Cabin 13 seats or Coaster/minibus, 21seats (4x 4 classical jeeps)
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18
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75
CLIMBING IN CHARKUSA VALLEY
The Charakusa Valley, located in the Hushe Valley region of the Karakoram range in northern Pakistan, is a renowned destination for experienced climbers seeking challenging alpine adventures. This remote area features some of the world’s most technically demanding climbs, including iconic peaks like K6 (7,281 meters), K7 (6,934 meters), and Link Sar (7,041 meters).
Access to the valley is restricted; climbers require a trekking permit for peaks below 6,500 meters and a climbing permit, along with military oversight, for those above this height. There are also fees for peak royalties and the Central Karakoram National Park (CKNP).
The climbs here involve steep rock faces, ice walls, and mixed terrain, making proficiency in various climbing skills essential. The base camp is typically set at around 4,000 meters, serving as the starting point for ascents. Climbers must be prepared for unpredictable weather, including cold temperatures and sudden storms. The ideal climbing season is from June to September, although conditions can still be challenging.
Notable routes include K7’s famous west face and the recently ascended Link Sar. To reach the Charakusa Valley, climbers travel to Skardu and then drive to Hushe village, followed by a two-day trek through rugged terrain and glaciers.
Overall, climbing in the Charakusa Valley demands careful planning and is best suited for well-prepared, experienced mountaineers, offering breathtaking scenery and a true wilderness experience.
Higlights
- Spectacular Peaks: The valley is home to numerous iconic peaks, including K6 (7281m), K7 (6934m), and Link Sar (7041m). These mountains offer a mix of rock, ice, and mixed climbing routes, making the area a haven for advanced climbers.
- Remote and Untouched: Due to its remote location and challenging access, the Charakusa Valley remains relatively untouched by commercial climbing, offering a true wilderness experience. Expeditions often require significant logistical planning, including permits, local guides, and porters.
- Technical Climbing: The climbs in Charakusa Valley are known for their technical difficulty. Many routes involve steep rock faces, ice walls, and mixed terrain, requiring climbers to be proficient in a range of skills.
- Base Camp: The typical base camp is located at approximately 4000 meters, providing a starting point for ascents. From here, climbers can explore a variety of routes on the surrounding peaks.
- Weather: The Karakoram range is known for its unpredictable weather, with conditions that can change rapidly. Climbers must be prepared for cold temperatures, high winds, and sudden storms, which can make the already challenging climbs even more difficult.
- Season: The best time to climb in the Charakusa Valley is during the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is more stable. However, even during this period, conditions can be harsh.
- . K7 has a number of established routes, including the famous west face, which is a technical and committing climb. Link Sar had its first successful ascent in 2019, and it represents one of the last great unclimbed challenges in the Karakoram. Sulu Peak and Naisa Peak are other notable climbs in the region, offering a mix of alpine and rock-climbing challenges
- Access: To reach the Charakusa Valley, climbers typically travel to Skardu, a major town in Gilgit- Baltistan, and then drive to Hushe village, the starting point for the trek into the valley. The trek to base camp takes several days, passing through rugged terrain and crossing glaciers. Climbing in the Charakusa Valley is a serious Endeavor, suitable for well-prepared and experienced mountaineers. The combination of breathtaking scenery, technical routes, and the remote, untouched environment makes it a dream destination for alpine climbers.