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The Land of Hospitality and Mountain Treasure

ID-1224 (Government license)

SPANTIK PEAK 7027M
Climbing Expeditions

This is also called the Yengutz Peak in addition to Spantik Peak. The Spantik is the part of the mountain chain, which forms the boundary between Hunza-Nager and Baltistan, in one of the quieter parts of the Karakuram. The people from Hunza and Nager Valley called the mountain GOLDEN PEAK/GOLDEN PILLAR for that side. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight. The ascend of the Pillar from this side, difficult through North Pillar that is technical route, first climbed by British mountaineers in 1987, was milestone in technical difficulty for Himalayan Mountaineers.

The other side (from Skardu-Balistan) of the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. On this side Spantik Peak is at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER in Arandu Valley- Skardu. It is usually climbed from Chogolungme Glacier (Arandu side), via the relatively easy long South East Ridge that is called NORMAL ROUTE. The climb a long the South East Ridge is the most achievable route of any 700m Peak in the Pakistani Karakorum. This route is generally considered a safe and technically easy route, has become the obvious target for commercially organized expeditions looking for straightforward ascent to 7000m.

It was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock-Workman by this route who reached up to the 6700m, a female altitude record at that time. A German expedition made the first successful ascent by this route in 1955 and repeated several times since.

Itinerary:
Day-01: Arrival Islamabad/hotel
Day-02: Government formalities
Day-03: Fly Skardu or drive to CHilas
Day-04: Preparation or continue to Skardu from Chilas
Day-05 to 08: Transfer to the Base camp/tents
Day-08 to 22: climbing and acclimatization
Day-23 to 25: Transfer to the Skardu/hotel
Day-26: Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas
Day-27: De-briefing or Islamabad
Day-28: Departure

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